27 Apr 2017

Fun new route

Update - I did it! (Wednesday May 17th). By skipping the last clip and milking a heel hook rest shortly before the end, I had enough stamina. This is my first 5.12a. I’m kinda proud. :)

In the Thalkirchen gym I’m working on an 8/8+ route that is hella fun. I’m hoping to get it clean in the next week. To that end, I’m memorizing the holds.

  • With hands on 3 and 4, you move up in a natural way to get right hand on 10, clip, left hand on 11.
  • Right hand moves to 13, then a walk through for left foot on 10, right foot on 12. Clipping somewhat sketchy. Hands move to 15 and 16 very high around the corner. Clip here.
  • A bold planting of left foot on 17 (not a hold, just structure) will keep you from barn-dooring off to the right. Left hand grabs 19.
  • Right hand grabs 20, left 21, then right hand on 22. Awkward clip here.
  • Move left foot up to 18. Left hand up to 23, right hand to 26.
  • Here, I’m a little confused. In fact, 24 is a mistake, ignore that foothold. The key is to use the green top of the black feature and/or 21 for the left foot. 25 for the right foot, but also the black structure below and right of it. The goal of all this adjustment is to be able to reach for 28 with your left hand. Then right hand on 29. 22 and/or 23 can be used for the right foot. I wish this were better specified!
  • 30 for the left hand.
  • On the bottom of the black structure with hold 28 is a tiny foothold for the left foot. Use that, and put the other foot on 26. This allows you to reach high for 31.
  • Watch out, hold 31 for the right hand is tempting but it’s also a “time-bomb” hold – you’ll only hold it so long before your fingers uncurl and you fall. You are probably trying to clip in this place. I’m unhappy with the efficacy of 27 as a right foothold. The black structure just below might be better.
  • Grab 33, then 34 (actually 34 labels two holds, grab 34-left), then 35. Move right foot to tiny 32. Clip here.
  • Grab 34-right, heel hook your right foot on 36 (not a hold, just a marker). The left foot has moved to tiny 32, kind of a match. The heel hook allows you to grab 37, and move left foot to the large 31. Right hand grabs 38. Clip here.
  • Next sequence is powerful but you are tired! You will have to skip the last clip, I can’t seem to avoid that knowledge. 39, 40, 41, with feet directly below on 34-left, 35, then 38 to (not!) clip and prepare dynamically for the last push.
  • Final moves are committed in a storm of oxygen deprivation, but they are not technical. Go!