On the Jungfrau

What do I like to do?

I seek adventurous, moderately technical alpine climbs in my own neighborhood. With a busy family and work life, I am not able to make time for expedition mountaineering. I also hate sitting in a tent for days, so I value flexibility in planning, preferably having an alternate goal in a drier region or maybe changing from climbing to hiking if the weather is rainy.

I don’t really do “pleasure trips.” For me, the relaxation comes as a warm glow at the close of a big adventure. Time is limited, and we must do as much as we can with it! At the same time, I believe laughter and friendship are an essential part of the mountain experience and I value them highly.

I know the mountains are a place of risk and danger. I seek to minimize the risk by travelling light, moving fast, and keeping in practice for moving smoothly over alpine (dangerous) terrain. At the same time, I love to climb traditionally protected routes, where routefinding ability and protection placement skills can be exercised.

I’ve written articles about alpine climbing on Summitpost here and here. I’ve also had the great honor to spend a few days climbing with my friends Aidan Haley and Fred Beckey on his first climbing trip to Europe. We spent 5 days in the Dolomites, and Aidan made a movie about the trip here.

What are my skills?

What have I done?

Here are some of the routes I’ve climbed in different areas.

European rock

In the Wilder Kaiser

In the Dolomites

Other places

European snow/ice

Washington State


British Columbia