Index with Theron

Published on 2003-7-30 by Michael Stanton

Index Climbing, July, 2003

Theron and I drove out for a small bit of climbing early in the morning. First we climbed G.M. pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 2 looks so intimidating from the belay, as it goes up to a roof and underclings to a steep wide crack on the right. But once you commit to the moves, you find they are all there in a solid (stolid? (STONKER?)) way. Like me, Theron finished this pitch breathing harder than he expected to! Now for "Heart of the Country", pitch 3, rated 5.10a. I got a great nut placement in at the start, made sure I was comfortable and took off for some semi-insecure finger jams and thin hand jams. I pasted my feet on the golden face and moved steadily up. When I could get my first real hand jam, I placed a black Metolius cam. I climbed higher, feeling my legs shake a little bit, but overall not needing to stop and rest. One more cam placement would protect my launch into the final overhanging section. But what the crack dishes out in angle, it gives back with solid jams for hands and feet. One...two...three...four... I marked time as hands and feet locked in place. I was done! I placed a #3 Camelot at the top just in case I pitched off on the easy mantle finish. Now I want to climb "Breakfast of Champions" I wonder how much harder it is?!?

Theron started, and had a really hard time. He doggedly worked the perplexing jams with withering arms and great displays of strength. It was really good practice for him, and after lots of work he arrived on top. "I wonder if I'll ever climb that free?" he mused. "In time...in time," I soothed. We repaired to our duties near the Sound.