Index with Alex

Published on 2003-7-1 by Michael Stanton

Index Climbing, July 1, 2003

Alex and I came late after work. Princely Ambitions was full (tsk tsk) so we went to "The Country" where I led the first pitch of G.M. (5.8). The pitch had a lot of walking on ledges, but a really nice steep flake that could be jammed and liebacked. Alex followed, then headed up for pitch 2, which climbed awesome overhanging flakes to a nice ledge with bolts. He clipped a bolt, then launched off for "Heart of the Country," a sweet 5.10a handcrack that led to more bolts up and right. Problems with rope drag and maybe too much protection tired him out pretty good, so he lowered off and sent me up to reach the anchor. I really enjoyed climbing up to the high point via jamming, liebacking, and good fingerlocks. I rested there for a moment, then enjoyed the sinker hand jams to the final bit, where I placed a last piece of gear. Above, I kept jamming until I reached the ledge. Wow what a great climb!!! Alex came up, also really happy with it. We rappelled, then Alex TR'd "Phone Calls from the Dead (5.11b)." It looked like a pretty neat climb, but the rating scared me away. Alex worked on a dicey mantel move above a pleasant crack system, then came down. He convinced me to give it a try. I was stopped by the same move, then contrived to do it a little differently by using two hands on the good handhold on the right, then rock onto my left foot placed a little lower and closer to me than was intuitive. It took several tries, but it eventually worked. Above, I pinched some knobs then reached an edge that could be gripped from the right, and provided easier progress for a few steps. It was getting late, and my last moves involved a sucker hold on the left that left me standing up on knobs with nowhere to go. I should have moved right towards the chain anchors. Pretty fun actually! Another rappel reached the ground, and eventually home.