Alpental Rap Wall

Published on 2003-11-22 by Michael Stanton

Alpental ice, November 22, 2003

Alex Krawarik invited me for some ice climbing possibilities at Alpental. We both expected to find something, based on the cold temperatures in Seattle. Hiking up the trail to Source Lake, we stopped to investigate the Alpental Falls, which were spraying water. Another cliff about 1/2 mile in didn't have enough ice. Finally, we tried mightily to reach ice about 400 feet above Source Lake. I snow-shoed up a slope of deep and powdery snow. It became steep enough that I might slide back a few feet, or at least cover myself in snow while fighting with the slope. Alex went ahead further, and realized the way wouldn't work. So we went down (with a great slide over a cliff, fun!), and tried again on the other side of a rocky buttress. Alex led the way for a long time, then sent me in front for a steep gully. I progressed by inches gained with great effort. We gave up on this route too, and made our way over to the Rap Wall.

At the Rap Wall we met a host of folks that Alex knew: Tim L., Tim M., John, Frank, Justin (hope I got all the names right). Justin led a route on the left, but couldn't reach the anchors above the last bolt. Tim Matsui and Alex worked to free an ice-covered top-rope from a route on the right. Finally, Tim L. led the middle line, so we ended up with three ropes available for TRs if desired. I only attempted the TR on the right, which was pretty exciting and enjoyable, despite my very poor performance. First, thin ice over rock on a steep ramp leading up and left. Then, an awkward transition to turn and face right for an intimidating and improbable traverse up and right. With one good ice foothold, I placed my tools on verglas-covered ledges and committed to the traverse (using phrases like "committed" on a top-rope seems kind of silly, but indicates my state of mind - it was scary anyway!). Tiny nubbins of rock for crampon points allowed me to keep going, and higher ledges for tools gradually made it possible to reach a decent ledge for feet. This was really strenous, I fell a couple of times attempting it. Alex made some comment about hauling me up and I realized that he was. What a sad sack I am, I thought. Oh well, there were a few easy moves, then I tried a few times to reach a big rock that I could hook with my tools. After a few attempts I made it, then continued up thin ice to just below the anchor. An awkward move which involved hugging an ice bollard and scraping away on bare rock with crampons allowed me to stand up at the anchor. Although this was by far the easiest route there (M6? M7?), it was too much for me - but I enjoyed getting to explore it.

Alex worked on the middle line to a high point, and Tim M. had an exciting lead fall trying to reach the anchors for the left line. I tried the route one more time, successfully making it to the start of the traverse without falling (yay!). I needed to get home, so Alex and I left.