Stately Pleasure Dome South Crack

Published on 2003-6-22 by Michael Stanton

South Crack, Grade II, 5.8 R

June 22, 2003

back to Sierras...

Well, it was our last day for climbing, sigh. We'd had such a great time. South Crack is a classic, awesome route with some great 5.8 finger cracks. Here are notes from our journal:

• P1 Michael 40 m - Fun flake grabbing led to a delicate traverse to a wide crack, made easier by a flake in the back. The crack narrowed to finger-width, occasionally pinching off to nothing (5.8). Sustained, great climbing here! Semi-hanging belay from a cam, nut and piton. |

• P2 Aidan 25 m - Beautiful finger pinches! As I climbed I let the world know how awesome they were! Stopped halfway up at nice ledge because a slow party in front blocked the way. Michael and I took a long nap on seperate ledges while we waited, then I belayed him to my ledge. (5.8)

• P3 Aidan 25 m - Led the rest of the crack to the start of slab! Looked like runout climbing above...It was!

• P4 Michael 50 m - Got two pieces of gear in the right trending crack, then set off left for unprotected 5.6 friction. A good cam placement was the only protection for 25 feet of 5.7 slab climbing to a gear belay atop flakes. Exciting pitch!

• P5 Aidan 50 m - Led easy runout slabs to bolts. One piece on entire pitch. (5.4)

• P6 Michael 45 m - Straight up on easy slab then crack climbing to ledge belay that marked end of climb (5.5). Traverse left to descent route.

Again we hiked down 3rd/4th class slabs like our previous trip to Stately Pleasure. This is another great climb with a great partner!

Aidan on pitch 2
First pitch with a party above
Another shot of Aidan on pitch 2
Clowning around
Aidan on top
A world of domes from near the summit
Aidan descending from Stately Pleasure Dome