Index Climbing with Peter

Published on 2004-4-2 by Michael Stanton

Index Climbing, April 2, 2004

Peter Chapman and I got up early for a morning climb at Index. We decided to climb 2 pitches of Princely Ambitions (5.10a). I really enjoy this climb. For me it is a little scary, especially early in the season. The individual moves are not strenuous, but require balance and a willingness to commit. The step-to-the-right move below the hand traverse, and then the hand traverse itself are the mental cruxes. This time, I placed a very good medium nut at the start of the hand traverse - Peter almost had to leave it while cleaning. I'd never placed anything there before successfully. Here goes! It's amazing how the vertical wall begins cutting away beneath you as you traverse. A patch of running water made for some damp rock and some anxiety midway. It was great to pull up and place an orange Metolius cam on the other side. Peter enjoyed his first time on the great pitch. He continued for the lead of pitch 2, rated 5.8. It climbs a crack and shallow chimney for 30 meters, the rock kind of grainy near the top. He found it instructive and very satisfying. The sun felt like like summer on the peaks around, crisp in the still, cool air.