June Index Climbing with Rudy

Published on 2004-6-15 by Michael Stanton

Index Climbing, June

Rudy R. and I went to Index for a few quick hours before work. Rudy led Sagittarius (5.9), a climb I'd wanted to do for a while but was intimidated by. It was really fun: a few lieback moves to a hand crack with good gear, then easy face climbing under the long roof to bolts. Then an awkward off-width crack/chimney that leads to more hand cracks and a lieback to the bolted belay. Awesome!

After this, Rudy gave me some beta for Roger's Corner, and I led the short 5.7 first pitch and 5.9 second pitch as one. The second pitch went through a section of grainy rock, then reached a stellar series of cracks below a tree anchor. From here, Rudy led Breakfast of Champions (5.10a). I followed, enjoying the insecure opening moves and bomber hand-jams above. We thought it was getting late, so made rappels to the ground and drove away. But we actually had time for one or two more climbs! Next time we'll bring a watch to the cliff. A great first climb with Rudy!