Castle Rock Climbing

Published on 2005-6-25 by Michael Stanton

Castle Rock, June 25, 2005

Theron and I got an afternoon start for some cragging in Leavenworth. Pulling up to Castle Rock in afternoon heat, Theron first led "The Fault" (5.6) on the lower buttress. I then continued for a fun climb of "Catapult" (5.8), such a great steep climb with a hold always where you need it! Theron led another pitch of easier terrain to reach Logger's Ledge. I then led the first pitch of "Canary" (5.8+), finding the pitch considerably easier than the last time I did it two years ago. The first moves getting around a slabby buttress are a wake up call, then it becomes a cruise to the stellar upper cracks. A fellow had taken a screaming lead fall on the exit moves just before we arrived, and he warned us about the treacherous nature of the last move. His knees and shins were bloody but he wasn't seriously hurt. I ungracefully clawed my way out of the cavelet, really intent to not fall! Theron came up more gracefully and set out to lead the second pitch. It was a great milestone for him, as the initial "Scary Canary" moves had him freaked out. He bravely committed to the move with a "devil may care" attitude, and then continued for fun adventure on the rest of the pitch. I really like the way that pitch continues on steep ground with horizontal cracks for gear. Since I was last here, beefy new bolts were added (to replace rusty ancient ones). Theron belayed me to the summit where he took a nap. I still had some energy, so I hiked down and then scrambled up the "Saber" (5.5) route. Man, that is a great climb too. Castle Rock is such an awesome crag!