Exit 38 Climbing

Published on 2005-5-10 by Michael Stanton

Exit 38, May ?, 2005

Carlos and I went to the Gun Show cliff this morning, having never been there before. We first climbed the "Endless Bliss" 5.10a 40 meter slab route, which was great fun, very enjoyable. Then we went looking for "Elation at the End of Eternity" a 5.8 or 5.9 route not in the guidebook. We found that the Gun Show cliff has had many new routes added to it, and got a little lost trying one (Carlos led a 5.7 pitch to an anchor, then I tried to climb pitch 2 but was stymied at a roof 3 bolts up), then another (easy climbing with a 5.9 "headwall" move right before the belay. No second pitch), and finally we found it. We thought this route was the best at the cliff. Juggy loose-looking rock provided a steep first pitch, and the bolts were further spaced than other routes making it a bit more exciting. (I thought it was 5.9). I strung the 2nd pitch together, and it was a very good 5.9 face/slab climb. I kept thinking I would skip bolts, but then the move was hard enough that I'd chicken out! A fantastic belay viewpoint, under a roof, with the cars on the freeway in your lap. Carlos liked the pitch too. We made two rappels and went quickly back to the car. A nice cliff!