Bernadeinkopf Direkte Nordwand

Published on 2007-8-16 by Michael Stanton

I wrote this in a kind of guidebook style for Summitpost.

Overview

The Bernadeinwand (Bernadein Wall) is a steep north-facing cliff with more gentle scree or meadow on the opposite side. It is a continuation of the East Ridge of the Alpspitze.

The wall offers a number of multipitch rock climbs of about 250 meters. It's suitable for an easy day or a brisk half-day of rock climbing, especially in conjunction with the scandalously easy approach afforded by the nearby Alpspitzebahn.

Here is the Direkte Nordwand (V).

Getting There

From Garmisch the easiest way is to take the Alpspitzbahn, then follow the trail for the easiest way up the Alpspitze. This trail goes down a steep but wide gravel path (sort of a road) from the upper lift station to the southeast. After about 15-20 minutes of walking you are below the Bernadeinwand, and a secured trail called the Schöngänge leads steeply up on the right side of the steeper Bernadein Wall.

Climbs typically start to the left (east) of where the Schöngänge trail steepens.

You could also hike up from the valley a number of ways. From the parking lot for the Zugspitze Höllental ascent (at the Garmisch suburb of Hammersbach), trail leads up to the southeast to the Kreuzeck Haus (1650 meters). From there follow a broad road due south. After 1 kilometer you'll reach the Bergwachhütte, and a few minutes later you'll be standing below the Bernadeinwand just as if you came with the Alpspitzbahn.

You might also like to come up through the Höllentalklamm from Hammersbach, then follow a spectacular contouring trail from the Höllentalangerhütte to the picturesque little pass at Hupfleitenjoch, and thence via trail to the upper station of the Alpspitzbahn.

To get to Hammersbach follow the B23 for 3 kilometers out of Garmisch to the west, then turn left on Schmölzstraße. Veer right onto Zugspitzestraße after 1/2 a kilometer, then go left onto Höllentalstraße. The parking lot for the Zugspitze Höllental ascent appears shortly on your right.

The Route

The Direkte Nordwand is a popular way to climb the Bernadeinwand. It has 10 pitches of solid rock, and has a nice line visible from the base. The route has bolted belay stations, and a mixture of bolts, old pitons and some gear placements along it's length.

It also has an easy walk down. It's a fantastic climb if you want some multipitch rock, and sweeping views but only have a 1/2 day to spare.

The route was first climbed by H. Bammert and H. Hintermeier in 1939.

Finding the Route

To reach the base of the climb, follow the Schöngänge trail steeply up scree directly towards the wall. Leave the trail on a (very) faint path and move left and up about 5 minutes to stand below slabby rock. Look for bolts in here which protect a nice III+ (5.4) first pitch. You should see a darker steep chimney above you, which is pitch two (some topos show the chimney as pitch one). You could also follow the Schöngänge Trail a bit further, then leave it on the left to start climbing directly at the chimney (which I'll call pitch 2).

Detailed description

Each pitch is under 50 meters.

After the first, straightforward slabby pitch, find a belay bolt on the right of a near-vertical chimney/gully. Climb the gully then continue up and right on a slabby ramp (bolts). IV.

Pitch 3: Continue up the ramp, then emerge on a scree bench. Escape the bench after a few meters of rightward walking by following a depression steeply up to a belay. III.

Pitch 4: Continue up from the belay about 6 meters, then traverse left for another 8 meters to reach a belay. IV.

On the 4th pitch (YDS 5.7/5.8) of the Bernadeinwand, Direkte Nordwand. This is one of the tougher pitches. You sort of squeeze your way up cracks with an overhanging wall on one side trying to push you off here.

Pitch 5: From the belay, move awkwardly left to enter a chimney, and climb it up, going slightly left when forced by bulges. V-.

On pitch 5 of the Direkte Nordwand of the Bernadeinwand. This little peak is dwarfed by the Alpspitze, but offers an enjoyable YDS 5.8 10 pitch rock climb to the summit.

Pitch 6: Continue steeply up and slightly left to belay in a gully. IV+.

Michael on pitch 6, just before the nut attached to the quickdraw on the left falls out of the rock! This steep pitch had no protection until reaching the base of the yellow overhang you can see above. Then there was one bolt about 15 feet from the anchor :-). In general the route is well protected, but this pitch was an exception :D.

Pitch 7: Continue up in the same gully with little protection, then skirt below a lighter-colored wall to reach a belay on the right. IV.

Pitch 8: Climb a steep crack with hard moves right off the belay (a good place to place hand-sized cams), then trending left up the crack/chimney system. Another tough move at half-height requires skirting around a chockstone on the left side. V.

Aidan is on the crux move (I thought) of the Bernadeinwand, Direkte Nordwand (UIAA V). After some YDS 5.7 crack and face climbing, you have to get around an overhanging bulge with one great handhold for the right hand, but little else for other limbs. :-). From here it's two easy pitches to the top.

Pitch 9: Steep but blocky and solid climbing leads up a left-trending ramp as far as you'd like to go. Easy but fun. IV.

Pitch 10: A final bit of scrambling brings you directly up to grassy slopes just east of the summit. III.

Gear

8 quickdraws, 4 slings with carabiners, a few medium-sized cams. Double ropes if you want to be able to get down in a rainstorm and be sure to avoid leaving gear.

A 50 meter rope(s) is sufficient.