Buchstein Climbing

Published on 2010-4-26 by Michael Stanton

March 20, 2010.

Alexander and I spent the day snowshoeing up to the Buchstein and doing some nice rock climbs. We did "Südwandschmannkerl" (VI-) first. Fun, easy climbing, with the best pitch being the crux VI- corner, involving stemming and a crack. We rappelled the route, then climbed "Sähnestückchen" (VII-), a neighboring climb with an amazing first pitch of grade VI.

Improbable moves on a slab characterized it. The second pitch was the crux, which I failed to master. It's at the third bolt, and was just a mystery how to step up to a shallow ledge above a vertical wall without a positive handhold. The pitch above was very nice too. Alexander led out for a long (V?) pitch with varied moves. Another long pitch led to an improvised belay in a slippery snow gully. Trying to top out from here was difficult, with various comical shinanigans. Eventually we grimaced and kicked steps in the snow in our rock shoes so as to enjoy the summit for a few minutes. We soaked in the view then rappelled down, connecting with Südwandschmannkerl because there were a few belays without rap rings on Sähnestückchen.

To close out the day I led the first pitch of Sähnestückchen, as watching Alexander lead it before was inspiring.