Burschlwand Climbing

Published on 2010-4-10 by Michael Stanton

Friends: Adrian
Location: Burschlwand
Elevation gain: 0m = 0m

Date is approximate

Burschlwand

April, 2010


Adrian, a new partner, and I got in a half day here. Despite a few difficulties climbing with each other for the first time, we climbed some good pitches. We climbed the main wall two times. Great sustained climbing! We did 10 pitches between VI and VII- (5.9 and 5.10c in the YDS scale). Detailed notes:

Unterländerweg P1 (VII-) Adrian led, very nice, felt a bit insecure.
Unterländerweg P2 (VI+) Michael. Hold broke at the crux and I fell. Rather dramatic. But nice moves in the crux area all the same (even without the hold :)).
Unterländerweg P3 (VI+) Adrian. Nice steep climbing on an outside corner.
Mon Cheri P4 (VI) & P5 (VI) Adrian. We lost Unterländerweg because the bolt hangers were gone. Adrian combined these two nice pitches for a long steep wall with flakes and incuts. Best pitch so far!
Mon Cheri P6 (VI+) Michael. Climbed a face just right of an easier ridge. Nice, some delicate moves. We hike down to start again.
Donna Delores P1 (VI+) Michael. Really enjoyable ridge and steep yellow face.
Donna Delores P2 (VI+) Adrian. Continuously delicate, "face to the wall" climbing. Looks very impressive and improbable for the grade.
Donna Delores P3 (VI) Michael. Long, left-trending pitch on a steep wall (though not as steep as the previous pitch). Route finding error led me too far left, then some difficulties getting back to my line. Later I needed to back clean several pieces. Found this a great pitch for endurance, but irritated my partner with all the delays.
Donna Delores P4 (VI) Adrian. Nice climbing straight up with a few thin flakes to supplement the continual sidepulls and shallow holds. Ends with a slight overhang, aided by bigger holds on the left side.
Unterländerweg P6 (VI) Michael. This is the easier ridge to the left of "Mon Cheri P6." By far the easiest pitch of the day.