May Martinswand Cragging

Published on 2011-5-12 by Michael Stanton

Friends: Adrian
Location: Martinswand
Elevation gain: 0m = 0m

Date is approximate

May, 2011

Adrian and I did a morning trip to the Martinswand. First we climbed "Maxl's Gamsrevier", 6 pitches to VII-.

P1: Adrian. 25 m. Grade V (5.7/5.8). Easily climbed up rather scruffy slabs with nice pockets.
P2: Adrian (combined with P2). 30 m. Grade VII- (5.10c). A very nice slab climb with a hard move in the middle. The key is to reach up high and left for a good edge. I fell on the first attempt.
P3: Michael. 40 m. Grade VI+ (5.10b). An excellent slab with amazing deep pockets going up and left to a ledge.
P4: Michael (combined with P3 with lots of simulclimbing). 35 m. Grade VI (5.10a). Skirts an overhang on the left, and continues up an enjoyable face with nice features, then finishes with a blank but easy slab.
P5: Adrian. 20 m. Grade VI- (5.9). A few nice moves then to easy terrain.
P6: Adrian (combined with P5). 25 m. Grade I (3rd class). Just scrambling up to a trail and going left along it to connect with "Maxl's Krone."

Then "Maxl's Krone," a 5 pitch climb at grade VII-.

P1: Michael. 45 m. Grade V+ (5.8). Climbing a friendly ridge/face on the right side of a corner crack. When the line becomes grassy, traverse left a few meters to a belay station on a ledge.
P2: Adrian. 25 m. Grade V (5.7/5.8). Up and left from the ledge along a pillar to a ledge.
P3: Adrian (combined with P2). 35 m. Grade VI/VI+ (5.10a/b). Left of the belay, climb onto a pillar and ascend nice pocketed slabs to a constriction in a shallow gully (crux).
P4: Michael. 30 m. Grade VII- (5.10c). Nice slabs lead up and slightly left to avoid a steep bulge. The crux is in here, with a slight traverse back right atop the bulge. Belay on a broad ledge.
P5: Michael (combined with P4). 25 m. Grade VI- (5.9). Climb above the ledge by a big loose (dangerous) block, making for an awkward bouldering move. Above this the grade eases. Continue up and left to a belay which also marks the top of the "Ostriss."

So as long as you don't mind a hilarious amount of simul-climbing, you can do it in 6 pitches. :D