June Flintsbach Climbing

Published on 2014-6-3 by Michael Stanton

Friends: Hannes
Location: Flintsbach
Elevation gain: 0m = 0m

June 3, 2014

Nur Fliegen ist schoener (7-), extended the climb into an anchor above, right at 30 minutes of climbing. It might have been into Normalweg (5+) or McFisto (6+/7-).
Felsrowdy (6+/7-) - first pitch fairly easy (5).
Felsrowdy P2 (6+/7-) - Hannes led this fine slabby pitch. Then we dropped down the other side to climb in the rain.
Steinlaus (6-)
Fliegenschiss (6-) - with correct exit, right and up, rather than left.
Miles Davis (6-) - I had failed to understand the step between clips 2 and 3 before.
Knabenkraut (6+) - quite wet. Several times, downclimb and rest at the crux move. Finally I found a sequence that worked for me:

left hand in pocket, right on chalky hold, stand up
right hand on lower half of high lieback hold. Bring left foot up to ledge and stand up.
right hand adjusts to upper half of high lieback hold
right foot inserts into chalky pocket, left foot goes far left onto slab, finds high good foothold on far left.
left hand reaches up for small ledge in right side of dihedral at head-height.
right foot now comes up to chalked crest hold.
adjustments of hands, left hand goes in pocket below bolt, right hand goes where left was.
continued adjustments allow clipping, and then finishing route. Just to note, Hannes found a hold below the "pocket below bolt" in the crack that might make things a lot easier.