Ettaler Mühle Icefall (WI5)

Published on 2015-2-10 by Michael Stanton

Georg and I got out reeeally early before work to climb this nice icefall before it falls down in warm weather. We were in the dark the whole time. Georg took the first short pitch after about 10 minutes of walking from the car. Nice!

He led up some easy steps (easy WI3) to an anchor. I led the next pitch, of similar length, but a notch harder at easy WI4. I'm using the word easy so much because the climb has been very popular, and often existing tool placements could be hooked. We never saw screw holes, but it was clear the way everyone went.

After this nice pitch, Georg got the crux, a WI5 pillar that is vertical for a good distance. He climbed up cauliflowered ice petals, then placed a couple screws to protect his entry into steep terrain. Following, I enjoyed the pitch very much, though my right index finger nearly froze somehow! I warmed up at the bolt-anchor belay, then led the final pitch. It was solid WI4, with a short vertical section bedeviled by weeping, running water and some rotten ice. I guess it's a good thing we didn't come later in the day! Foolishly, I dropped the second screw I placed, leaving me with only four screws for the pitch. At the end, I had to really run it out!

We gained the top, and it got light as Georg came up. Nice! Two quick double rope rappels and we were at the packs. Back in Munich by 9:30!