Rucola on the Martinswand (V+/VI-)

Published on 2017-4-15 by Michael Stanton

On the first pitch

It was time to hit the rock again! Barbara and I had one day before the rain started everywhere, and the Martinswand seemed like the best place to spend it, with significant snow blocking routes up high.

I found a route, Rucola (5+/6-) with 7 pitches. We drove down there and got started. It was the first time for her to really have to get familiar with double ropes.

1. 38 meters, 5-. Nice climbing up and left across a slab.
2. 28 meters, 5-. Short n' easy.
3. 32 meters, 4. A wandering pitch to connect to the upper route.
4. 38 meters, 5-/5. More interesting and long.
5. 32 meters, 5+/6-. A really nice crux, and all the climbing leading up to it was good too. Basically, a vertical wall with nothing for the left foot, requires some interesting balance moves. I liked it very much!
6. 25 meters, 5-. Also very good! Barbara liked this pitch a lot, too.
7. 30 meters, 4+. Easy climbing. We headed off left to the abseilpiste.

On the first abseil, I ended up at the P6 belay station, and sent down a cluster of pebbles on the party there - very sorry! The abseil anchor was about 5 meters to the left. From there, it was more straightforward. Barbara really loved the abseils, but for me, there was too much loose terrain to make them anything like fun. The third abseil was an exception - nearly vertical for 30 meters, no problems with the rope.

A little lunch place

View from lunchplace

Barbara

What do you think you are doing?

On the abseils

Barbara on P6

On pitch 7

We finished up on "Skyscraper" (4+), a really nice little climb at the Klettergarten at the base of the wall. Good times!