Martinswand

Published on 2018-4-28 by Michael Stanton

Timo and I suddenly had the day to climb! So we did.

First up was "Maxl's Gamsrevier (7-)." I'd never managed to get the 7- move on this climb clean and today was unfortunately no exception! Boy...maybe one day...

Timo led the 6+ pitch three, and I did manage to get that move...a very interesting shallow corner where you stand up holding your breath. Well...I did at least!

Getting ready to climb.

Timo specialized in selfies, this one has me, too! On Maxl's Gamsrevier.

We hiked up a bit to the left to reach "Maxl's Krone (7-)," a definite highlight of the day. Every pitch on this climb is interesting! Timo dispatched the steep but juggy 5+ first pitch.

Looking down the first pitch of Maxl's Krone (5+).

Michael on the enjoyable first pitch of Maxl's Krone (5+).

The next pitch was similar, on a shallow pillar rising from the face. It was grade 5, but I thought it was about as hard as the first pitch.

Pitch three was really interesting. There was a long reach for a jug at mid-height which nearly didn't work. Then higher, it has delicate moves in a shallow corner with generally poor hands. I liked it a lot!

The "sehr schöne Platten" of Maxl's Krone, pitch three.

Maxl's Krone, pitch four...crazy good! (7-).

The fourth pitch at grade 7- was a tour-de-force. First easy slab climbing, then you gradually work into a vertical channel, with just the bare minimum of small hand and footholds where you need them. I deeply enjoyed the opportunity to concentrate hard here.

The last pitch had a hard grade 6 move off the belay, then rapidly became easier. Strong wind kept things interesting though, at one point I nearly blew over!

Timo and I made the long hike down from the upper wall, first belaying down for one pitch from the end of the route. I'd forgotten how steep that area was, only remembering it as a "walk off."

We got back to our packs, drank some water and ate some food. Our finale would be "Kaiser Max Spätlese (6+)." Vaclav and I had done this climb only two weeks before, enjoying it very much. But I'd cheated at the 6+ crux. This time I was determined to get it clean.

As usual in the lazy afternoon heat, it was hard to get going. Timo led the first pitch, which is steep but not difficult (5). I did the interesting grade 6 traverse moves right above his head on pitch two. The 5- and 5 pitches that followed went without incident...frankly, we were tired!

Timo led the next two, which first lean to the left, then execute an interesting downward traverse (4+, 4+).

Michael enjoying the traverse on Kaiser Max Spätlese (4+).

Last pitch of Kaiser Max Spätlese (6+).

I headed out for the last pitch, and really enjoyed getting the crux clean. I executed a traverse below the bolt on the slab, finding it quite sketchy to reach a small hold up and left of the bolt. I realized there is probably a better way, by staying right of the bolt until you can use a little pocket for a finger above. No matter...my way was highly interesting!

Timo's highly artistic and beautiful Inn.

Thanks to Timo and the good weather for lots of fun! It was great to catch up, it had been years since we'd been able to climb together...