Nordwandliebe (V-)

Published on 2018-9-9 by Michael Stanton

Update: Uli added his own thoughts on the climb below, too.

Only a day after Vaclav and I climbed the Riegelekante I was back in the Wilder Kaiser, this time on the northwest side of the range, instead of the southeast!

For Uli and I had business on the Scheffauer with "Nordwandliebe" (North Wall Love is the translation), created by the amazing local climbing couple Herbert und Inez Haselsberger. Years ago, Uli and I ran into Herbert on a late fall climb of "Via Romantica (VI+)," probably his most famous addition to the walls of his home mountains in the western part of the Wilder Kaiser.

Christiane came along, and made a long visit to the whole of the Kaiserbach valley. We'd meet her again after the climb at the Kaindlhütte. Since I was so tired and sore from the day before I made sure we took the little chairlift to the Brentenjochalm, saving about 700 meters of elevation gain. It was strangely enjoyable sitting in the single-person chairlift, looking into sun-dappled woods all around.

Uli and I walked quickly enough to the base of the Scheffauer north face, then walked along it about 10 minutes to the left where we easily found the route (marked by a little red heart on the rock). The sky was blue and the day would be fine, but on starting up, we were cold. Uli got the first pitch, at 5- one of the harder ones. He had to think a little while at the 2nd bolt to really commit to the moves. Following the pitch I was impressed -- it felt difficult for cold fingers.

Looking down to the belay on pitch two

Uli's Impressions

It was a long time since my last climb, I guess I've paused almost two years. The moment when Michael passed me the sharp end of the rope at the bottom of the Scheffauer northface was: Puh, I am still capable to lead the 5- pitch? Often I had these moments of overwhelm on climbing trips which put me in a state of constant pressure, which accompanied me through the entire route. So this moment was somehow anticipated and well known, but not really welcome.

I took the rope and started climbing. It turned out that the moves are not that hard, but committing. Away from the slightly overhanging ridge onto the slabby face with little holds. After a few attempts, my fingers were already numb, I started off. At the belay I felt cold, but good that I've accomplished the first difficult parts of the climb.

The second pitch was led by Michael. I followed via the traverse below an overhanging band and then around the corner and steep up to the belay. That corner was my personal crux. I felt very insecure in this move, knew what to do, but couldn't find my courage to move. So I searched for good handholds, pulled my self up, found something to step on. Now I had to reach further with my hand, but didn't dare. Got tired in this arkward inbetween position and this voice inside me said, let Michael pull the rope and take a rest. Firmly I said NO to myself and pulled through, accepting the risk of a short fall. My fingers finally found the next hold, one footstep up and I was around that "diabolish" corner.

With that early moment in the climb I'd won the whole day. The rest of the climb I felt good, no overwhelm about lurking hard moves in the upper pitches. I was climbing with respect and caution, but I felt capable and not stressed like often before. So for me it became a really new and nice experience.

Here is Uli on pitch two, just after those hard moves he described!

As Uli says so well, pitch two (IV+) was interesting! A rather intimidating rightward traverse with lots of exposure led to a slab which is climbed directly up, then back left to the belay station. Wow! It was a high quality pitch, but Uli and I both felt that we might be off the wall rather late indeed. In fact, the next pitch, at grade III+ and 50 meters shouldn't be difficult on the face of it, but it began with vertical lieback moves on slabby terrain. I wouldn't call that grade III+! However, as the day gradually warmed up our fingers felt happier and we got used to the rock. After these intimidating first three pitches, we found that the grading of the route was very good / correct.

Pretty steep for 3+

Uli on the pitch 7 pillar

On pitch ten

We continued up, especially enjoying pitch 7 (IV+), which climbed clean rock to the top of a pillar with a little bit of sun. A bit of downclimbing, then travelling in coils for a pitch connected us from this pillar to the steeper face of the upper route. Pitches 10 (IV) and 11 (V-) were especially good. First, steep climbing on somewhat breakable rock, then cruxy moves on an leftward rising traverse which was very well protected (3 bolts and a fixed pin). Pitch 11 ended with fantastic slabby moves above the traverse.

On pitch eleven

Escaping the overhang

Pitch twelve (3+)

The Zettenkaiser

The final five pitches

A little mold never hurt anyone

The last three pitches (III+, III, III) were quick and enjoyable. Indeed, the quality of the grade III pitches was always high. We put the rope away and scrambled up to the last difficulty: the "Schaffler Sprung (III-)." We lowered ourselves on a fixed rope then stepped across a large gap somewhat apprehensively. Whew!

We had a fantastic meal on top: cheese, sausage, peppers, bread, chocolate. We made the rapid but steep descent on the Widauersteig -- Uli was so fast! I was racing to keep up, but at some point in the years I became a slow descender. Strange how that sneaks up on you...!

Summit of Scheffauer

I got to the Kaindlhütte to find Christiane and Uli sharing a beer. I ordered a Radler and a piece of Topfenkuchen to get some sugar in me for the long descent to Kufstein. We talked and joked (and Christiane even shamed me into 30 minutes of Deutsch) all the way down trails and roads to the car, getting there at about 21:30.

Long, fantastic day, thanks Uli, Christiane, thanks Scheffauer and the mysterious loving-rocks of a shady north wall!

Dusty Boots