Fleischbank "Via Classica" in Wrong Shoes

Published on 2019-8-15 by Michael Stanton

Date is approximate, I just know it was in August

Vaclav and I slept near the trailhead and hiked up to climb Via Classica, a wonderful route I climbed way back in 2007 or so! Hilariously, I'd accidentally brought Barbara's rock shoes instead of my own. I couldn't get them on my feet, but I could stuff my toes in and using another pair of shoelaces, I was able to rig up a system where they wouldn't suddenly fall off when I take a step. We actually simul-climbed a pitch or two at the start like this. Sometimes I used Vaclav's approach shoes which had a pretty good edge. However, on pitches of grade V, the only chance at the climbing being "fun" was to wear the strange "toe-shoes" I'd built.

This was pretty funny, despite being annoying too. As we climbed it got more difficult because I was using extra muscles to "tip-toe." Vaclav got to lead almost everything, especially the wonderful 50 meter crux (V+) pitch in the heart of the great gully. What an amazing pitch! There are many great pitches...

I had some excitement near the end, leading a great 3+ pitch in Vaclav's approach shoes (IV-?). It felt quite alpine. I even placed a cam!

Then we enjoyed the long, long scramble up to the summit. Just fantastic weather and scenery in here. We waited awhile on top to let a very large and slow party get out in front a ways. However, we eventually caught them and were behind some of them for the abseil, which is (I didn't know this) now a famous bottleneck for getting down from many routes.

This large party did some funny things. For one thing, lowering each party member rather than having them abseil. Secondly, they did a kind of trepedatious system where they lowering someone, then rigged up a double rope system only after intense communication via walkie-talkie with the party member(s) below. It was very odd, and I grew impatient. By twos and threes, more people came behind and settled in to wait on the steep ground above the abseil station. As we waited, the leader of the party boldly invited members behind us to pass us and join his complex lowering system. This would delay us by another half hour at least. Irritated, I asked if we could go past and got a firm no ("I don't want you knocking off rocks above my people!!" he said).

I'm ashamed to say that here I became rather unhelpful, rolling my eyes dramatically at further statements by this poor man. He was stressed out, and perhaps over his head in charge of 8 people who needed to be lowered. I comisserated with the parties behind us (now about 12 people), and unfortunately did nothing to defuse the situation. This would matter later, as I see it.

Finally we were able to go. We managed two abseils (we had a single 50 meter rope), then were behind the large party again. And here is where things got crazy. Above us, apparently the dam of patience had burst, and people were beginning to downclimb or do something that knocked off a bunch of rocks. In the volley, I was hit on the hand, which drew blood and hurt like hell. Vaclav helped me get a bandage from my pack and wrap up my hand. As if that wasn't bad enough, soon there came a noise of much larger rocks tumbling down. At this point I was pissed and actually frightened. I already knew I was in the danger zone (as were others) because I'd been hit once. And these larger rocks could kill us. I shouted profanities up the mountain, hoping that the impatient people would at least care a little bit.

This time, no one was hit, and the rockfall stopped for good.

The party ahead had got their system worked out, and moved more quickly. Vaclav and I hurriedly made 2 (or 3?) single rope rappels and ran away from the face as fast as we could. I was full of adrenaline and very focused on getting away. Also pretty angry with the whole thing. But we triple checked our work at each stage and really fired through efficiently. Big kudos to Vaclav for being focused, fast, sharp and very even-keeled. A calming presence helped. We also had a nice conversation with a fellow coming down in parallel on the side.

It took 3+ weeks for my hand to get better. Sort of a bone bruise and superficial cuts around the pinky and ring finger. I wish, in retrospect, I'd been more patient. I feel that I might have contributed to those parties above being all pumped up and exasperated with the delay, and in this "elevated" atmosphere, it became statistically likely that someone would "take matters into his own hands," and begin exploratory downclimbing or rappelling along a side line. I'm not sure what happened, but I hate the thought that I contributed.

I can say this: the slow party didn't deserve scorn. They deserved understanding and kindness. Remember my shame at a lack of charitable feelings next time you are in this situation. Far better to get home late than to get home late and to have been unhelpful.

Vaclav and I had a long descent. A massive rainstorm broke out, eventually destroying Vaclav's phone, so we have no pictures. It was a wonderful climb, and an instructive descent. I'm glad I'm the only one who got hit by a rock! I wish the best to all parties.