Fleischbank "Via Classica" (V)

Published on 2020-6-28 by Michael Stanton

Jong and I were both beat from the previous days activities, but with a decent chance at a good full day before the rain started, we felt we had good reason to hike in for a day of multipitch climbing.

He always wanted to climb "Via Classica," and I like the route so much -- I'd climb it twice a year if I could! It would be my third time on the route, and a bit more fun after the unintentionally hilarious climb with Vaclav in which I only had Barbara's tiny rock shoes to afix insecurely to my feet.

That trip had a memory I wanted to erase with something better, too: the terrible abseil situation that ended with a bleeding gash on my left hand.

We were hiking up around 7 am or so, and went as quickly as we could, huffing and puffing a bit. We got to the base of the route, left a pack stashed there, then wandered around a bit to find the anchor at the end of the first pitch. I took off for mostly easy scrambling, though near the end I took a high-route variation that was a pitch of "Kotius Interuptus." There were some sustained cruxy moves going right on a slab above a bolt. We moved the belay over to the right beside a chimney with a massive chockstone and were back on track.

The third pitch was nice in the chimney, though there was sometimes a lot of water running over rock. I wondered -- did we come too early after a rainstorm?

Pitch 4 followed a wet wall covered in sharp holds. I was worried about a traverse, but the handholds were so good, it didn't matter that they were wet. This was a little stressful, but ultimately enjoyable!

Pitch 4: Jong finishes the interesting (wet!) corner-crack.

Jong took the next pitch, a nice romp up then moving right on a band.

Pitch 5: Jong climbs up to the Almrosenband.

Pitch 6 was a nice chimney at first, then a romp on a easy buttress. I just love the rock on this climb...

Pitch 7 began with a corner. Following the usual pattern, the right wall was a bit wet, however it wasn't a problem. Such joy in moving over stone.

Pitch 7: Michael in the "Super Spreiz-Kamin-Verschneidung."

We walked up the steep meadow of "pitch 8," then Jong sent me off on the slab above. Avoiding water patches, I worked up and right, until a few high steps got me into a shallow grove that led pleasantly enough to the anchor.

Pitch 9: On the slab that gains entry to the second chimney.

Another pitch led up into the great chasm, with the most enjoyable rock always on the right side. Pitch 11 is a full 52 meters -- I could only clip the belay bolts when Jong dismantled his belay and took a couple of steps.

After a short walk into the deepest part of the chimney, that pitch climbs a slippery vertical step, aided by small but solid handholds. At a difficult spot, I could just reach a "Thank God" hold, and got a surprising bath of cold water for my hand. "Authorities refresh this little basin weekly with anti-bacterial spray," I called down to Jong, who would be pleased. After the hand washing, the sustained upper half of the climb begins -- 30 wonderful meters up corners with great little ledges to stand on. It's just an incredible position and I'll never get tired of it.

Pitch 11: Jong approaches the belay at the end of a long, fantastic pitch.

Pitch 11: It's hard to describe how pleasing the holds are in here.

Pitch 11: Jong finishes the pitch.

I continued above, remembering when my friend Daniel fell here, 13 years ago. My gosh, time flies, and I just keep doing the same thing. Maybe I'm a clock too, I just run very slow. But maybe I run deep? I doubt it, but it would be nice if it were so.

Escaping the great chasm, I climbed several steps between ledges to the belay. Jong and I admitted to each other we were tired here!

Pitch 12: Michael heads to the Light, lol.

We walked tiredly up and right to the bolts marking the start of pitch 14. This pitch climbs unprotected for at least 15 or 20 meters to a single bolt in a vertical chimney. That woke me up a little bit! From here it was easy to the belay. For the last pitch, I was unnerved by running water in the "Wasserrillen." Happily there was a lot of friction to this rock and it wasn't a big deal. Higher up there is no protection (I didn't find the Sanduhr mentioned in the topo), but I was able to get a sling behind a big flake. I did find the Sanduhr that marks the belay, and brought Jong up.

Pitch 15: It's done, we can wear shoes again!

We walked up, soon finding a trail that led slightly down around a buttress and then back up a broad slope that got us to the ridge crest. This was a less direct way than usual -- it's probably more fun to just go directly for the ridge crest.

Hiking to the ridge.

Jong and a couple of guys from Innsbruck.

We only sat on the summit for a couple of minutes, then started down. We downclimbed the summit area (rather steep), then walked over and up through the little pass then down again to the first abseil station. We made one abseil, then hiked a few meters to make another one. Here, it's necessary to stop after 10 meters. I went too far and stood on the rock while Jong pulled the rope and reset it at the station I'd passed. Three abseils from that point and we were down safely.

Fleischbank and Christaturm in the foreground.

The heavens must be earned.

Some awkward steep snow had to be traversed, then we made the long, long walk down to the meadow below the north side of Fleischbank. Jong was fast and I got very slow. I think it was because I just ate one Twix bar for the whole climb. Jong went to get our pack, and on his return I ate the other Twix bar. That gave me energy to continue.

The hike down to the car was much better. We didn't get into rain until we were driving near the Irschenberg exit. A pretty darn good day! Thanks Jong for sharing the rope!