MaMa-Kante

Published on 2020-5-20 by Michael Stanton

Jong and I climbed the MaMa-Kante (V+) on the Kreuzwandspitze above the Dammkarhütte today.

Our peak, the Kreuzwandspitze is on the right.

Our climb. Note the two parties of three roping up. They were quite fast! We came near them occasionally through the day, but never close enough to exchange awkward COVID-era conversation.

Pitch 1: 5, 25 meters: Climb an obvious crack right on the edge. Usually too wide for hands, but you can use face holds here and there.

On the first pitch, which features a crack splitting a slabby buttress.

Jong on the second pitch, leading out.

Pitch 2: 4, 20 meters: Enjoyable moderate climbing.

Jong captured this image of me feeling happy-go-lucky at the top of pitch one.

Pitch 3: 4, 40 meters: I think this was only 35 meters actually, though I'm referencing grades and lengths from the Panico Karwendel guidebook. I followed easy ground without protection up and somewhat left to a wall with enjoyable climbing. I belayed right above a steeper section, with the ridge flattening out ahead of me. Two parties of three ahead of us ended up belaying at different places, and blurring the 4th and 5th pitches in a strange way.

Pitch 4: 3, 40 meters: Jong moved along the level ridge, prudently bypassing an intermediate station and continuing to an anchor at the base of the steep pitch 5.

Pitch 5: 5+, 35 meters: The crux pitch, and fantastic climbing! First up on the right from the belay to a piton, then moving a meter or so left onto a slab to follow a line of a few bolts straight up. The pitch has a satisfying length to it -- really fun.

Here is an image I took in 2007 of my friend Aidan leading pitch 5. It's amazing how time passes!

And here I am, in Jongs picture.

Climbers get over a bulge on some otherwise easy ground on pitch 6, one likely to have rope drag without careful protection management.

Pitch 6: 4+, 40 meters: First easy ground, then left around a bulge. There is a piton at the base of the bulge -- be sure to use a long sling, because it will contribute to rope drag higher, especially if you've found natural protection in the rock near the start on the right. The problem is compounded because above the bulge, you climb a slippery crack with a piton still further left, and then, rather humorously, you end up back on the right with an enticing piton that few could resist clipping. By this point, you might be well and truly stopped by drag! Jong reduced the problem with a very long sling on that last piece, allowing him to enter and complete the last 15-20 meters of the pitch. An exciting move around the corner on the left finishes it.

Pitch 7: 5, 40 meters: My older topo indicates going up and left, but the 2016 rebolting of the route includes a bolt on the right. I went that way and found the toughest moves around this point. You climb a crumbling seam up to an overhang, then traverse onto a pillar, from which the rest of the pitch continues enjoyably straight up.

Pitch 8: 3, 40 meters: Requires an interesting hand traverse right on the ridge-crest at the end. Fun!

Pitch 9: 3, 30 meters: A "boring" connector pitch, just following a chimney/gully up to a niche below a rounded, slabby buttress crest.

Pitch 10: 4+, 30 meters: Deft climbing right on the crest. It might seem impossible unless you ignore tempting seams for fingers and toes on the right, and concentrate on balancing right up the center of the crest -- there are some encouraging hand edges on the left side.

Pitch 11: 4, 20 meters: Ignoring the steep bolted wall above (7-?), I went down and left, then back up on easy ground to reach the last anchor.

Pitch 12: 2, 45 meters: We just walked up this, then changed into shoes on the summit.

Eye-watering view from the top of the route, showing the hut and the various Karwendel paths that allow commerce to pass through this harsh land.

A "pano-rama" taken with my phone from the summit.

On the summit in discount hi-tech clothing.

The two (related?) parties of 3 above us walk companionably over to the true summit from the cross marking the end of the route. I suppose the cross is placed there so that it would be visible from the Dammkarhütte.

Approaching the true summit of the Kreuzwandspitze.

Jong has a collection of gear for sale.

Going down, back home!