June Bad Heilbrunn Climbing

Published on 2023-6-3 by Michael Stanton

Barbara and I went back and climbed:

• Ameisenkante (3)
• Salger-Ged.-Platte (4+)
• Schwarzer Riss (4+)
• Kondensstreifen (6+)

On Kondensstreifen, I wanted to lead it successfully, but it felt so dicey! I made an attempt and chickened out, moving right into the Schwarzer Riss then back left higher to give myself a top rope. I re-did the moves with that, then finished to the anchor. I lowered off, tried again.

Again, a failure! This time I grabbed the 3rd quickdraw, feeling like I'd slip if I tried to clip it.

I focused more on exactly what moves to make. There is one key slippery foothold which will only last for so long before the foot slips. On the next try, I found that if I hooked my left thumb on a crease by my chest, I gained security on that slippery left foot while moving the right foot to the next minor indentation.

So finally I found the way, and led the route successfully from the ground up, though quickdraws were in place for clips 1, 2 and 3. It's really amazing how big the mental barrier is for slabs in my mind. But this experience helped a lot. Thanks to Barbara for patient belaying and lowering!