Odla de Cisles, Südost Kante (IV-)

Published on 2024-07-13 by Michael Stanton

Wow, this peak has three names -- Odla de Cisles is the Ladins name. In german it is the Villnößer Geisel. In Italian it is the Odla di Funes.

Suddenly the weather in the Dolomites looked better than closer destinations, AND my old friend Carlos was going to be in Val Gardena with his family. I drove down Friday evening and slept nearby, then got the first lifts up to Col Raiser. I wasn't sure of exactly what I would climb, but I had a rope, gear, and technology for "rope soloing," something I've been learning about lately. The Southeast Ridge of Odla de Cisles was the most ambitious idea, and the weather seemed good enough to give it a go.

It had rained hard the night before, but I knew the rock dried quickly here, at least on ridges. However the first pitches are on steep and rather unpleasant wet grass. That was the crux of the day! I reached a piton belay with some relief after two normally easy pitches.

Somewhere on pitch 4

Higher on the route, scrambling on the ridge crest

Here, at the first 4- climbing, I set off in rope-solo mode. Gradually climbing away from the grass, I got onto rock and clipped a piton for protection. The most sustained climbing at the grade on this route followed directly, with hands above a leaning crack and feet on nubbins below. I placed a cam along the way and enjoyed the moves, finally stepping around a corner to the belay stance with a single piton and a couple of cam placements.

Abseil, then reclimb the pitch...

I soloed easy ground to a couple pitons that mark the next 4- step. However, I saw just around the corner than it could be climbed at an easier grade, so I kept going with this slight variant (which seemed more natural and had more signs of passage than the rather scruffy looking 4- vertical step). The route continues somewhat ominously into a gallery with overhangs, and I was relieved to see the belay bolt on the left side as my topo promised. Another rope-solo pitch followed, with an enjoyable 4- move escaping the gallery for the ridge crest. I didn't see the two piton belay that marked the end of the pitch, and continued into the next one for a full 50 meter pitch. Hmm...I need an anchor now!

Happily there was a suitable rock right on the ridge crest. Abseil, dismantle the anchor and reclimb. Time for chocolate.

In occasionally strong wind I followed the crest, imagining that it might rain, but not too worried so long as I could get past the last 4- pitch before things were wet.

This pitch begins at a notch, and is marked by a few slings around hourglass formations in the rock. I soloed this part, very nice vertical climbing on great features.

Above this point, I tied the rope to my back (I'd been trailing it behind me and occasionally reflaking it on ledges). The final pitches were very nice, often on the ridge of the ridge, sometimes on the ridge.

At the top of a false summit, the route continues for another 40 meters of easy ground to the true summit. I decided not to do it though, because the wind was strong and felt "wet." I'd rather go ahead and find the first abseil anchor and begin the complex descent. So the true summit waits for my next visit!

Scenery in this wild world of towers

Hi there, hello, it's me

Otherworldly summits above a green world...

From the notch below the false summit, you need to traverse around it's side about 5 meters to a solid bolt belay with abseil rings. I rigged and threw the ropes, beginning a long journey to the Schlucht far below...

And...ran into trouble: after 25 meters, the anchors weren't visible anywhere around. Hmm. Finally, I rigged gear to be able to reclimb the ropes, making use of more ledgy terrain off to climbers left. I reclimbed about 15 meters, then saw the anchors even further left. Ah! Good.

After descending to there, I pulled the ropes, and...stuck.

Sheesh!

Again, reclimbing most of the abseil pitch, this time solo since I only had one end of the rope (and it was easy)...I discovered the rope tied in a knot around a block. I think this happened because the rope was still oriented to a straight-down rappel. So...be sure to angle off to the skiers right as you descend.

The first, problematic abseil. The ropes should be off to skiers right!

Views on the descent

Now I really hoped not to have more such delays. I did 6 more abseils the last of which was free-hanging for the last 10 meters. This got me to a ledge in the Schlucht where I could follow cairns down to a steep chimney. This was down-climbable, for about 50 meters (grade II). Then more scrambling down to finally reach another abseil station and 3 more abseils.

A little more downclimbing and...I was back at my pack and shoes. Whew!

The route marked from the base

Peaks marching purposefully to the east...

The complex descent combined with the weather and complete lack of any other people in the whole area gave this a more serious feeling than usual, I think.

I walked happily back to the lift station and rode down after the obligatory beer and struedl.

Then a delightful dinner with Carlos, Deborah, Nathan and Thomas. I headed back north afterwards to the Stubai, and they prepared for a day of E-biking under the Odle Group.

A fantastic day.

Much of the Odle Group