Wilder Freiger
Friends: LouiseLocation: Wilder Freiger
Elevation gain: 2250m = 2250m
I'd met Louise a week before on Habicht, and she gave me a spare "Seven Summits of the Stubai" logbook for me to stamp on the summit. Cool! As it turned out, she spent the next days climbing at least 5 others. So when she suggested that we team up for the Wilder Freiger, I knew I'd have an energetic partner for the climb. I already knew she was an interesting and cheerful person from our delightful conversation on Habicht. Let's go!
We met at the parking lot for the Nürnberger Hütte at 6 am, and were soon walking up. Lots to talk about -- amazing how that makes the elevation fly by. We took the rightmost variation on a steep slope, seemingly created by sheep herders to access broad, grassy slopes.
A goat worries that Louise might slip
The hut wardens were in house-cleaning mode when we got there, but they consented to give us a Milchkaffee to drink in a corner while they swept and moved chairs around. The climbers had been up and away for a few hours when we got there (probably around 8:15). Louise bought the drinks, and I astounded her with my perfect guess that the cost would be 7 euros. For my part I was surprised to be right...I mean, the cups were not very big!
We rounded a basin then climbed steeply in switchbacks. I was holding forth on the utterly benighted worldview of the crop of "Hamas" protesters on college campuses these days, gradually recognizing the bemused expressions on the faces of the folks we were climbing through. We were pretty fast somehow, probably fueled by intense discussion! Soon we were crossing short snowfields above the Seescharte, then descending to a broad snowfield with a shallow frozen lake in the center.
There was a good bit of traffic up here, because several multi-day hiking routes pass through this area. We met two women from Israel doing the Stubai Traverse and wished them well. The sun remained hidden, and we had to dress up a bit for wind protection.
Climbers approach the mysterious lake beneath the Gamsspitzl (photo by Louise)
Somber clouds on the approach (photo by Louise)
Steadily climbing...
Looking back north in the Stubaital
After the lake, we got onto a ridge with occasional narrow sections, sometimes protected by a wire. Peaks and glaciers became our siblings.
Looking east to the Pflerscher Hochjoch
Louise was new to snow climbing, so it was with a mix of curiosity and apprehension that we approached a step-kicking slope to meet a plateau below the summit ridge. We both had lightweight crampons for running shoes. Louise had "boots" which were pretty cool for their ankle support but I don't think they were much different from the lightweight running shoes we both preferred. It's unfortunate for us who love lightweight gear, but when there is a lot of snow, or even a little snow that is steep, real "clodhoppers," that is, heavy boots with a full steel shank are the thing for permanent snowfields. We'd gambled that we could get away without all that, and this was fine. But if we'd been in the month of May it would be different!
So we kicked steps up for 30 meters or so, then made some new steps to work around an icy, gravelly section. After another short snowfield, we were on the plateau, and the "crux" of the day was complete. Cool!
The Becherhaus in a glacial landscape
Similar shot
Thirty minutes later, after a scenic ridge scramble, we were on top. I was fascinated by the Becherhaus, which had been "seized" by the fascist Italian government in 1922. I think that was unusual. Normally the world of alpine clubs were left alone. It's the first time I heard anything like that. On the summit a man said this was our "Austrian sadness." He and another guy had brought up cans of beer to drink on top. Neat! We all took turns taking pictures for each other. The sun wasn't really out yet, but patches of blue were increasing in the sky, and the views kept improving. Of course, Louise and I proudly punched our stamps!
(She only has one summit to go now, and a handsome wooden plaque awaits... I'm excited now too, and plan to spend a few weekends in the fall on this project, hmpf!)
Michael resting on top (photo by Louise)
Michael and Louise on top
Climbers approach the summit from the south
After enjoying the views a bit more, we headed down.
A mountain hero poses! (by Louise)
Louise climbs cheerfully down...
We're chatting about something
The summit attracts a crowd!
There was a "toll house" on the plateau, half falling apart. How terrible to be the toll collector up there...I fear I would become morally lax, and allow the smugglers bribe me with whiskey and pipe tobacco.
This place would be bleak in a snowstorm...
The Wilder-Freiger-Ferner (ferner means glacier)
Faffing about with gear
We strode confidently down the snowfield, as one must for good purchase, then put the spikes away. At that point the sun came out, heck yeah.
Louise carried a small pack but somehow had the right clothing at every moment. There are at least three outfits at different points, some achieved by creative yet practical combinations. I laughed looking at our pictures later, because she always looks perfectly suited, while I have a kind of "transit authority employee" look.
Descending to the mysterious lake (photo by Louise)
Michael is drawn to the still pool...(photo by Louise)
Hmm. The pool is sadly stagnant
A short climb above the pool
Except for this picture. I think I look correct here:
A fellow sometimes feels at home here...(photo by Louise)
Louise captures a panorama
The sky opens up in the afternoon
Gorgeous country above timberline
Louise on the descent
Approaching the hut
I was hoping for Kaiserschmarnn at the hut but the kitchen was closed. Louise said too bad they don't have a DURCHGEHENDE WARME KÜCHEN, which made me laugh because I'd been joking about a kind of 1960s German asthetic of stolidly built structures and restaurants that advertised a "continously warm kitchen" like it was a fantastic innovation.
Apparently it really is a great innovation, and has not yet come to the high country of the "Austrian sadness!"
So we just got some drinks and headed out. Maybe I got some cake? I forgot.
To distract myself from weariness, I got ahead of Louise and played a game of trying to stay ahead (not easy with her), and succeeded until I collapsed on a bench 20 minutes above the car park. It was kind of amazing how much more varied and beautiful the terrain below the hut was in the sunny early evening, but it was LONG TOO!
What a great time. Big thanks to Louise for the suggestion, and I look forward to the dispersment of wooden plaques (hopefully in a solemn ceremony in the Neustift Rathaus), and to a future trip in high snow and rocks.
The Nürnberger Hütte, sadly without a warm kitchen at the times we
were there (photo by Louise)
Oh, I made a "reel" on Instagram here it is: