Nassereith Climbing

Published on 2024-04-14 by Michael Stanton

Helmut and I had a day to climb, so he suggested we do some easy multipitch routes at Nassereith. Using an always helpful Bergsteiger.com topo, we soon found ourselves roping up at the base.

We first climbed Südost Wandl (4 pitches at 5-, 5+, 5, 3+). The rock looks rather scruffy and uninviting, but I must say right up front that pitch 2 was one of the finest 5+ pitches I've climbed. Bergsteiger.com says it well:

Obwohl der erste Anblick der zahlreichen Graspolster nichts Gutes verheißen mag, merkt man spätestens nach ein paar Seillängen, dass der Fels besser ist als vermutet.

Even though it looks grassy and uninviting at the first glance, one notices within a ropelength or so that the rock is better than expected.

I led pitches 1 and 3, Helmut got to lead that excellent 5+ pitch 2. The third pitch was also nice, going out left around an overhang and returning to the nice wall climbing with little holes that characterized the second pitch. The last pitch was short and unnecessary.

We made 3 rappels to the base, trending off to higher ground the side to avoid a 4th rappel.

We rested a bit, then climbed "Via Platenigl" (3 pitches at 4, 5, 4+). These were nice, but not quite as memorable. Once again, pitch 2 was the best for its sustained nature. 3 rappels again.

Helmut leads the second pitch of "Leben in Sonnenschein" (5).

A similar shot.

Now we were smart enough to find some shade to rest in with a few other folks. For our last climb, we chose "Leben in Sonnenschein" (4 pitches at 5-, 5, 5+/6-, 5). This was a very nice climb, every pitch was interesting. The first was short, but the other 3 were 30 meters each. Knowing I wouldn't get to climb again for a while, I artificially increased the difficulty by using every bit of slab available. This was great education for the feet and the mind.

A look at the interesting slab of pitch 3 (5+/6- on the left side, 6+ in the middle).

A shot from the middle of pitch 3, looking down to Helmut at the belay.

*Helmut climbs the 3rd pitch of "Leben in Sonnenschein".

We chatted with an interesting pair: an older man just beginning to learn climbing with his grand-daughter (probably). They didn't get all that far, but they seemed to have a good time. Finally, we had a well deserved cold drink and Apfelstrüdel at the local restaurant and headed home.

Thanks Helmut for the nice companionship and big thanks to the sun for our "Leben in Sonnenschein."