Schneekopf to Fiechter Spitze Traverse

Published on 2024-05-26 by Michael Stanton

I'd tried to climb the Fiechter Spitze before, though I didn't know it was technically graded at UIAA III (low 5th class in the YDS system). I'd turned around because of too much snow and not enough daylight on that occasion anyway.

Today I figured to hike up Schneekopf, whose steep meadowy southern uridge had inspired me on prior hikes up Hochnissl. I made the steep grind up from Vomperberg, and was entranced by a snail:

Then after a brief rest for fresh water at the cabin, I turned off left and climbed up snow and scree to reach the traversing trail which gains the Schneekopf South Ridge between the Vordere and Obere Bärenköpfe.

At the cabin was a nice barrel of water which had a magical appearance:

Anyway, once on the ridge the way became faint and little red marks appeared here and there along the easiest line. Here was the scenery moving up through there looking off to the west to the Fiechter Spitze:

And then higher along the ridge, marked by occasional use of hands:

I reached the summit more quickly than expected. In the logbook, I saw a note that the last person to sign the book had been here a week before, and had traversed from the Fiechter Spitze. Well heck, I should have enough time today for that, I thought! I quickly read the good report on hikr.org about the Karwendel Grat Schmankerl to be prepared. Here is the ridge with the imposing Mittagspitze along the way:

Saying goodbye to Hochnissl and Lamsenspitze off to the west, I turned firmly east and made my way carefully down along the ridge, again aided by little paint marks. The Lamsenspitze looked especially neat, and I thought of the route Timo and I climbed back in October.

I came to a very steep part of the ridge and was inclined to think I should climb it, but the red marks had deserted me. I had to concede that it was going to be harder than grade II, so I went down a gully and sure enough, found marks leading down and around the tower. On the other side, the way to the summit was quite clear.

Looking at the logbook on the Mittagspitze

Me on the Mittagspitze summit

I liked the way people had left metal coffee cans with rocks to hold them down such that they collect rain-water. What a great idea to make long ridge traverses more pleasant!

Getting down was made more complex by a snowfield, steep enough that I didn't want to play with it. I followed red marks down along one side, then the way was under the snow. Eventually I went back up to the summit and found a detour around all the snow, and then at the bottom of the field, I crossed back to where I thought the proper way should be. This worked out well. I also noticed that the quality of the rock degraded sharply on this east side of the Mittagspitze into the kind of Karwendel "mess" we know and love. Breakable, often suddenly, with loose piles of rock always ready to move a little further down.

My way down from the Mittagspitze, including my detour around the summit snowfield

I got a very stern reminder of the (lack of) quality of typical Karwendel rock while trying to enter the chimney to reach the Fiechter Spitze summit. I'd gone slightly too far off to the right and wanted to look around one more corner before I turned back to find the route. I stood on a solid looking block with hands on slabby holds. Suddenly the block released from the wall and I had to scramble a bit to stay attached. The air filled with the smell of cordite as this large block tumbled into the depths, bringing many others with it. "Ugh!" I thought. Sure enough, the route was a bit behind and above me. If you stay exactly on the line, the rock is solid. But 3 meters to the side and you are in a much more dangerous wilderness!

Now comes the crux of the day: descending the Fiechter Spitze. I expected grade II and then two pitches each with some grade III, marked by bolts or pitons. I tightened up my shoes and started down. The way is enjoyable and logical and well-marked. I rapidly got close to the saddle where I could become a hiker again, but the terrain was getting steeper. Finally I entered a chimney with easy travel then heard voices. A few more moves and I met Martin here, who had set up a belay to bring Rebecca up. He was in a narrow niche in the chimney. I downclimbed a few steep moves to stand by him. Before I could ask, he suggested that he'd tie off the rope and let me use it as a handline in case of trouble as I went down. Great idea, my thoughts were along a similar line. This was the crux pitch, right above the saddle.

Rebecca waited for a few minutes as I came down. The crux moves were getting down and right below a slabby bulge, where handholds are solid but noticably more sparse than usual. For the leader going up, there is a bolt right at this spot to aid courage. Happily I didn't need the rope, but if I did, this would be the place to somehow use it.

After a brief chat with Rebecca, she started up and I walked down, getting a few pictures of the pair on the descent.

Martin and I at the first-pitch chimney (Kamin) belay

Martin and Rebecca having fun on the Fiechter Spitze

A similar shot

This shows the line of ascent on the Fiechter Spitze Ostgrat from the saddle

Happy sheepses above the Inn :)

A good day.