City of Rocks June

Published on 2026-06-23 by Michael Stanton

It had been a big day on Leatherman, and so I hopped in the shower, then headed to bed. We woke early to meet Sue and Alyssa for a climb of Steve's most recent route, Vahalla on Stripe Rock. Steve generously gave me the lead for all pitches and he enjoyed the follower perspective for the first time. Sue and Alyssa came right behind us.

Steve coming up the wonderful "Valhalla" (5.8)

A similar scene, a pitch higher

He suggested I combine pitches one and two (both 5.8), though the first move is awkward and protected by a chain to pull through. Rather than hang out, I pulled it and was soon into the interesting second pitch. As Steve points out, this is more edge than friction climbing, unusual for this area. Really fun. I brought Steve up and Sue was close behind as I started on pitch 3 (5.8). Wonderful stuff...

Climber in the dawn...

Sue enjoys Odin's Shield...

Soon we were on "Odin's Shield," which I think is the highlight. The position, the feature and everything else combined for a great feeling. At the belay above this, we waited to get nice pictures of Sue and Alyssa. We named Alyssa the "Shield Maiden" because she had braids that reminded us of pre-Christian Viking fashion.

On top, we sat around the "bathtub," gradually becoming a "hot-tub" with the sun. Sue suggested a kind of tandem rappel, where one party carries down a rope for the next rappel. This was fast for four people. It turns out she is familiar with simul-rappelling and did a lot of it in El Potrero Chico, where she met Dotti years ago.

Sue again...

Steve climbing a variant at the top of the Shield

Sue and Alyssa, happy like clams

After this we walked to the shady side of the Meadow Muffin to climb Steve's routes from 2023. First was "Minotaur" (5.10b). I led up, but quailed at the crux moves. Here I got a lesson in using a stick clip, and used it to clip the next two bolts. Then I could free climb again. We all did a few laps on the route, finally getting the hang of it! It'll still be a tough lead when I get back there again...

We then climbed the route to the right, "Grizzly Cow, aka Bovinus Horribilus" (5.10a). I got this one clean, if I remember correctly, and really enjoyed it. So did Sue and Alyssa, and of course, the route creator!

My lazy feet and Sue

Ice cream at the Tracy General Store

After that we walked back to the car and repaired to the Tracy General Store for ice cream, as you do.

Day Two

The next day we started an hour later and went to the Hostess Gully with Dotti as well. We did the first pitches of

• Piece of Cake (5.7+, trad)
• It Takes Two (5.8, sport)

Then a TR of "Hot, Sticky Bun" (5.10a), though only the first pitch. What a fun climb. I even downclimbed most of it on TR, just for fun (or in response to a dare!).

Finally, on this wall we all did TRs on "One for Matt" (5.9+, trad). I even did a mock lead of it, and Steve followed and cleaned the gear, complaining only that the yellow Totem cam had a tipped out outer lobe. I'm excited to go back and lead it. The crux is simply that the difficult move is made with gear near your feet. There is a kind of stem and backstep on a layback against a rock left of the crack because the crack pinches down to nothing at this point. One or two insecure "smearing" features for the right foot.

Alyssa thinking of something

Dotti in Hostess Gully

Alyssa belays Sue on Hot, Sticky Bun (5.10a)

Meanwhile, Sue and Alyssa had climbed "Genevive" (5.7, gear+bolts), a route by Duane on the opposite wall. I wanted to lead that too, so Steve gave me a belay. I placed three cams along the way and clipped a few bolts.

Dotti was super stoked to have climbed Piece of Cake and It Takes Two, early in the climbing season for her. She didn't want anything to do with crack climbs like One for Matt!

Day Three

Alas, I could only stay for a few hours because I had to get back to Idaho Falls to get my trailer hitch put on. So with an early start we headed out to Bath Rock and warmed up with a climb of "Rollercoaster" (5.8). This is a super warm-up route. Alyssa and I geeked out on a kind of metaphysical discussion about the nature of reality. She had some interesting experiences and shared them. I shared my own quirky experiences. I've finally learned something about that.

I used to share these stories and think that they would mean something to other people. For example, if they didn't think God existed, perhaps now they would. This was naive of me, and more importantly, I understand now that I wasn't granting other people the degree of sovreignty over their mind as they really have. Subjective experience may change your life entirely. But it happened to you, and you alone. It cannot be communicated as "main course." It can only be shared as something like the music playing in the background while the diners eat their courses. This is why in Zen Buddhism, they deprecate the sharing of experiences. It is noise to some, music to others, but in both cases, alters little.

Only if you have HAD a subjective experience of a certain kind, and you run into another who did too...well, then you two can gather around that fire, and this is wonderful. Just know that whoever overhears may be steeling themselves against an attack on their intellect! How can I share an experience without trying to impart a message? An extensive preamble? But that merely gives away the idea that I consider it important. So important that (I think) it should rock the world to its foundations. In a sense, I am asserting that I am important.

I am not.

I am only a contact lens above nothing. It would be wrong to say I am "nothing," that would be a "humble-brag." And untrue. But I am not important or noteworthy. I admit that sometimes I want to be. But this is only because my thoughts lingered too long on the abstraction of myself. I desire to do this less.

But anyway, that was a long digression! I wish to be small that the world be large. That is enough.

So it was time to lead "Private Idaho" (5.9). Steve had led it before and gave me some advice. I enjoyed the stems along the crack in the lower section. Where it became tough was just below the top: on the right, you enter a slot with bulging walls with nowhere to put feet. You have to keep them in the crack which harrows away down and in below you. I got a good foot jam with my left foot and began thrutching upward. I could move the foot up, as I pawed uselessly for holds above. The crux for me was leaning out enough to be able to get a right foot jam in the crack. I managed this, stood on it, and then the great difficulty was passed.

Oh, I got a #2 yellow Camelot in to protect this crux, and a hand jam right next to it.

What a great climb!

We all top-roped it more than once.

Alyssa on Private Idaho (5.9)

Some people are just happy, as if "just" is a small thing

Next we went right over to "Coffee and Cornflakes" (5.10a). I had to hang at the crux before sending it. Incredible overhang with good holds. We all enjoyed a few runs on this climb, then I had to leave. Steve and the girls continued with a few more climbs.

What a great time. Big thanks to Steve, Sue, Alyssa and Dotti, and although Duane didn't climb with us today, he was an amazing host and...the best cook I've ever known.

Sue on Rollercoaster (5.8)

All of us -- until the next!